Bone Marrow
Mushroom Ravs in Foie Gras Cream Sauce
Chocolate Lava Cake
Greece
Meatballs
Griller of the balls
Shaving the spit
In front of Nico's; meat sticks make good pointers
Jennifer with our baby
I can be so silly sometimes! Shortly before I left for my two-week trip to Europe, I informed my friend Jac: “I’m going to try not to eat my way through this trip.” Jac snorted at my comment, and rightfully so. I don’t know why I thought this would be an achievable or even desirable goal when my travels included stops in Paris and Greece. As anyone could have predicted, the goal was shot to hell after about two bites. I have never stuffed myself as much as I did the past few weeks and damn, it felt good.
My itinerary began with a few days in London, followed by one night in Paris, and concluded with eight nights in Greece. My inner swine didn’t truly shine through until I arrived in Paris, but I did manage to throw a few solid calories back in the UK. What follows are the highlights and a few low-lights from two weeks my taste-buds will never forget:
1. Belgian Waffle (London) – Aside from Indian fare, the Brits really aren't known for their grub so I purposely stuck to cheaper, simpler choices in preparation for the Greek gluttony I knew was coming. While I did enjoy some outstanding Indian take-out with the Sullivans, it was the crispy-yet-chewy Belgian waffle that left me speechless. I've had many a waffle in my day, but this was unlike any I've had. It had a crispy, almost toffee-like exterior with a chewy and warm interior (I hope this description differentiates it from run-of-the-mill waffles, because it is). I am big on dips, dressings, sauces, etc - especially when it comes to traditional breakfast food - but this waffle's texture and flavor required nothing else. Thank you, Jeannie, for insisting I try one. (Sorry no pic)
2. Chez Fernand (Paris): Jennifer and I ate here in 2010 and I dare say I officially have a Paris spot! More than a year after my first visit, I could still recall each course like I ate them yesterday. So, when I had just one dinner opportunity in the City of Lights, a return visit to Chez Fernand was a no-brainer. I now pledge to eat there any time I am in the city again: it is that good. The bone marrow starter was more decadent and wonderful than I remember it. I could have finished there and skipped out of the restaurant a happy girl, but my pasta dish stole the show. I ordered the mushroom ravioli in a foie gras cream sauce (off the starter menu, no less) and each bite was truly a gift from heaven. Soft, flavorful chunks of mushroom infused pasta drenched in the thick, salty cream sauce: there are no words. A sliver of foie gras worked its way into every couple of bites. Keeping with the decadence, Jennifer and I split the chocolate lava cake. In each of these dishes, I wanted to lick the plate. Trifeta perfecta!
3. Meatballs (Spili, Crete): I was fortunate to visit Greece with fellow foodies. We shared every dish at every meal, so I always got to try multiple dishes. I am particularly thankful for the our sharing policy because I wouldn't have been inclined to order meatballs at our lunch spot in the small Greek town of Spili, but luckily Mary Jo did. Shortly after ordering, we saw our server walk the raw meat out to an outside grill and do her thang. The end result was a thick, hamburger-patty sized ball of lamb goodness. I don't know how it's done, but the patty had a slightly burnt and crispy exterior yet a rare, moist interior. Furthermore, I have never tasted seasoning like this before; I honestly don't know what they used because I've never tasted before - or at least in this combination. It was mild and slightly sweet and simply enhanced the natural flavors of the lamb. It was addictive in the way that a chocolate cake keeps you coming back for more long after you're full.
4. Gyro, Nico's (Rethymno, Crete): Talk about saving the best for last. Believe it or not, finding an authentic Greek gyro was a difficult task (as was hummus - never saw a lick of the stuff). With just one hour until our taxi to the airport was scheduled to pick us up, Jennifer and I finally got our hands on one - or four. The initial plan was to split one. The moment we laid eyes on the juicy meat on the spit, the fluffy fresh pita bread, and homemade tzatziki, we decided we'd be better off with one each. When our Greek guy asked for us four Euro - TOTAL - we agreed it would only be polite to get a third for Jennifer's Mom. And, can we get some of that juicy meat on a stick? Kabob style? Yes, within five minutes, our quest for one gyro turned into two lamb gyros, a meatball gyro, and a lamb kabob. Par for the course.
So, did we regret our splurge? The only regret I have is not purchasing another suitcase, frozen as many as they would make in an hour, and shipping them home. The lamb meat (which, as you can see in the photo) is literally shaved off a spit and quickly heated on a grill, and drizzled with fresh lemon juice. Like the meatballs in Spili, the meat had some magical but unidentifiable spices to differentiate it from anything I've tasted in the States. Savory, lemony, crispy but chewy. The meat absolutely carries the wrap, but the fresh tzatziki (a yogurt and cucumber sauce), warm pita, and a few french fries stuffed inside are all critical pieces of the puzzle.
And yes, the fact that it was the single cheapest meal I had (just 2 Euro a pop!) added to the glory of it all. TWO EURO!
6. Misses: There were a few moments where I was reminded that I am spoiled in San Francisco, especially around the produce. In particular, a shrimp & avocado salad confirmed that California avocados are second-to-none. The Greek avocado was grainy, not smooth and buttery like they are at home. I also had a few Greek salads where the tomatoes were good, but I'd take a local heirloom tomato any day.
The day before my triumphant gyro discovery, I ordered one at a waterfront restaurant (read: touristy). It came out as a platter in which we were expected to build the gyro ourselves. The pork was tasteless. The pita was triangle shaped and the size of a large tortilla chip. It was 9 Euros. Needless to say, it made the next day all the sweeter.
Since I've been back, several people have asked me about the trip's highlights. Without question, it was the food. Not only did I experience new tastes and flavors, but the dining experience really united the people I was with.
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