The Brighter Side

I assume that my 5-10 readers here know I spend my post-work evenings running. That activity, six out of seven days each week, gets in the way of spontaneity, and, consequently, I imagine, some good meals. So as disappointing as my recent ankle fracture diagnosis was, I funneled my extra time into eating (don't tell my college coach). So, at least one good thing came out my gimpness: a trip to Regazza.

Tuesday afternoon found me with a bum ankle and nothing to do after work. A few texts later, I scored myself an invite to Regazza with my pal Sarah, her boyfriend Ryan, his cousin, and his gf. Sarah and I killed time at previously reviewed Girabaldi's (this place is truly your best option for a quiet Happy Hour Special) before heading over to Regazza, San Francisco's latest pizza rage.

The crust here is good; the crust is very good; to the point where you'll come back regardless of what's actually on the pie - give me a bowl of olive oil and I'd be quite totally satisfied. The toppings on each pie I tried (bacon and brussel sprouts; buttnernut squash and ricotta, respectfully) didn't have me yearning for more, but the crust sure did - do not under-estimate the power of a good crust. The other menu options - fresh salads, interesting appetizers - provide a little something for everyone. Our dessert - a crust with Nutella slathered on top - was unique and delightful. My company, I might add, added to my enjoyment.

What's the verdict, you cry (all five of you)? My diagnosis is this: San Francisco's pizza scene is extremely competitive right now. Delfina, Flour + Water, Zero Zero, and A16, Regazza, etc are just a few competing for the top prize. In my opinion, they are all exceptional, but none is significantly better than the other. My best slice this year was way out in Point Reyes (at Osteria Stellina), which I still assert to be noticeably better than the local options - but quite a trek/investment to get to. Bottom line, I am spoiled. Regazza is awesome and you should go.

Is There Meat In That?

"Everything. I am too distraught to discuss now. I have some words for tomorrow."

I texted the above response to explain what was wrong with Umami's burgers to an avid fan who encouraged me to prioritize a visit to the newly opened Union Street outpost. For those unfamiliar, Umami Burger (not to be confused with Umami which is located a few blocks east) is the latest burger phenomenon to hit San Francisco. The chain was born in Los Angeles and opened its first Bay Area location this month.

Frankly, the place has "chain" written all over it. The lighting is unflattering, the interior design unoriginal, and the buns have a tramp stamp "U" on the bun (check out my pic if you don't believe me). When I was told of a 30 minute wait, I asked if I could get a drink in the bar area and chill; the hostess looked at me like I had two noses (bar seats are reserved like any table seat). I could handle all this if the burger was good. But the burgers are a lesson in how to NOT build a burger.

The bun/patty relationship is much like a bridesmaid/bride relationship. The bun, like a good bridesmaid, is critical to the overall experience, but should never overwhelm the meat/bride - only enhance. The meat is the reason everyone comes to the show. Going to Umami is like going to a wedding without a bride. The 6oz patty is literally lost under the weight of the thick bun. Umami either needs to serve a thicker patty to even out the proportions or find a new bun altogether. The toppings were forgettable. If you're still with me, we tried the Umami Burger and the Truffle Burger.

The sides (which one pays extra for - another strike - hasn't Umami heard the phrase "burger & fries"?) don't do much to redeem the experience. The secret, "off the menu" tater tots that the waiter enthusiastically tells everyone about are mediocre (and really no secret as every table I saw had them). The "special" cheesy interior creates more of a mashed potato interior with a soft, non-crispy exterior. Go to Bullitt if you want real tots. If the chefs were aiming for game-changing sweet potato fries, they missed the mark by adding a cup of brown sugar over the top.

Lastly, the cookie ice cream sandwich confirmed this place is a miss. The salt-n-pepper ice cream was too strange for my taste and the peanut butter cookies were pulled out of a freezer.

The burgers range from $11-15 so they're neither a bargain nor a rip off. But in a city where there are too many outstanding burgers and not enough time, this place won't be a return visit of mine anytime soon.

SF's best kept secret

Ever since I visited Terzo on New Year's Eve last year, I find myself recommending it to everyone. Partly because it seems to be fairly unknown but mainly because it's perfect for any scenario: girls' night, first date, 15555th date, anniversary, parents-in-town, even a low key New Year's Eve night. It has that "special occasion" feel without being pretentious or overly expensive. And the food leaves you wanting more.

Adrienne and I showed up reservation-less on a Saturday night and the hostess was able to maneuver a few tables to find a spot for us (with a smile). The interior of the restaurant makes me feel warm inside: the front bar is buttressed by a bookcase and fireplace while the lighting is low and the colors neutral. You can show up in jeans or a cocktail dress. Like Bix and a few others, I simply enjoy being there. The bar is inviting and a great option for a more casual meal.

"Small-plates"-that-are-in-reality-quite-generously-portioned is one of my favorite food trends. I recommend visiting Terzo and ordering one or two items off the appetizer list, one or two mains, and a dessert. The menu changes daily. Reminiscent to one of my all-time favorite spots, Picco, the menu at first glance doesn't appear particularly innovative or unique - but the execution takes it from ordinary to exceptional. For example, every other restaurant in San Francisco is offering hummus and pita as an appetizer these days. Terzo does too, but its seasoned pita bread, drizzle of olive oil, and creamy homemade hummus makes you forget about the others. Moreover, burrata - something I've been seeing more and more on menus recently (or just eating more and more of recently...) - is also taken to a new level at Terzo. The beautiful colors of the heirloom tomatoes provide a aesthetic pleasure while the scoop of olive tapenade gives the otherwise mild cheese an interesting punch.

Adrienne and I shared two pasta dishes. Terzo perfects the art of combining homemade pasta noodles with juicy, heart-attack-inducing cuts of meat. Put down your knives, because the pieces of pork and chunks of sausage fall apart at the touch. The fact that the pastas come out piping hot is not lost on me, either.

To be fair, I have had better desserts than the fruit crisp I had at Terzo. Perhaps the bar is just set too high by the main courses, but I found the crisp to be tasty but not something I'd order again. All the more reason to come back and work my way through the dessert list.

So, if you're thinking "where should I eat this weekend?" - and I don't care what the occasion is - my vote is Terzo. Thank me later.

I came, I saw, I ate.

Paris

Bone Marrow

Mushroom Ravs in Foie Gras Cream Sauce

Chocolate Lava Cake

Greece

Meatballs

Griller of the balls

Shaving the spit

In front of Nico's; meat sticks make good pointers


Jennifer with our baby



I can be so silly sometimes! Shortly before I left for my two-week trip to Europe, I informed my friend Jac: “I’m going to try not to eat my way through this trip.” Jac snorted at my comment, and rightfully so. I don’t know why I thought this would be an achievable or even desirable goal when my travels included stops in Paris and Greece. As anyone could have predicted, the goal was shot to hell after about two bites. I have never stuffed myself as much as I did the past few weeks and damn, it felt good.

My itinerary began with a few days in London, followed by one night in Paris, and concluded with eight nights in Greece. My inner swine didn’t truly shine through until I arrived in Paris, but I did manage to throw a few solid calories back in the UK. What follows are the highlights and a few low-lights from two weeks my taste-buds will never forget:

1. Belgian Waffle (London) – Aside from Indian fare, the Brits really aren't known for their grub so I purposely stuck to cheaper, simpler choices in preparation for the Greek gluttony I knew was coming. While I did enjoy some outstanding Indian take-out with the Sullivans, it was the crispy-yet-chewy Belgian waffle that left me speechless. I've had many a waffle in my day, but this was unlike any I've had. It had a crispy, almost toffee-like exterior with a chewy and warm interior (I hope this description differentiates it from run-of-the-mill waffles, because it is). I am big on dips, dressings, sauces, etc - especially when it comes to traditional breakfast food - but this waffle's texture and flavor required nothing else. Thank you, Jeannie, for insisting I try one. (Sorry no pic)

2. Chez Fernand (Paris): Jennifer and I ate here in 2010 and I dare say I officially have a Paris spot! More than a year after my first visit, I could still recall each course like I ate them yesterday. So, when I had just one dinner opportunity in the City of Lights, a return visit to Chez Fernand was a no-brainer. I now pledge to eat there any time I am in the city again: it is that good. The bone marrow starter was more decadent and wonderful than I remember it. I could have finished there and skipped out of the restaurant a happy girl, but my pasta dish stole the show. I ordered the mushroom ravioli in a foie gras cream sauce (off the starter menu, no less) and each bite was truly a gift from heaven. Soft, flavorful chunks of mushroom infused pasta drenched in the thick, salty cream sauce: there are no words. A sliver of foie gras worked its way into every couple of bites. Keeping with the decadence, Jennifer and I split the chocolate lava cake. In each of these dishes, I wanted to lick the plate. Trifeta perfecta!

3. Meatballs (Spili, Crete): I was fortunate to visit Greece with fellow foodies. We shared every dish at every meal, so I always got to try multiple dishes. I am particularly thankful for the our sharing policy because I wouldn't have been inclined to order meatballs at our lunch spot in the small Greek town of Spili, but luckily Mary Jo did. Shortly after ordering, we saw our server walk the raw meat out to an outside grill and do her thang. The end result was a thick, hamburger-patty sized ball of lamb goodness. I don't know how it's done, but the patty had a slightly burnt and crispy exterior yet a rare, moist interior. Furthermore, I have never tasted seasoning like this before; I honestly don't know what they used because I've never tasted before - or at least in this combination. It was mild and slightly sweet and simply enhanced the natural flavors of the lamb. It was addictive in the way that a chocolate cake keeps you coming back for more long after you're full.

4. Gyro, Nico's (Rethymno, Crete): Talk about saving the best for last. Believe it or not, finding an authentic Greek gyro was a difficult task (as was hummus - never saw a lick of the stuff). With just one hour until our taxi to the airport was scheduled to pick us up, Jennifer and I finally got our hands on one - or four. The initial plan was to split one. The moment we laid eyes on the juicy meat on the spit, the fluffy fresh pita bread, and homemade tzatziki, we decided we'd be better off with one each. When our Greek guy asked for us four Euro - TOTAL - we agreed it would only be polite to get a third for Jennifer's Mom. And, can we get some of that juicy meat on a stick? Kabob style? Yes, within five minutes, our quest for one gyro turned into two lamb gyros, a meatball gyro, and a lamb kabob. Par for the course.

So, did we regret our splurge? The only regret I have is not purchasing another suitcase, frozen as many as they would make in an hour, and shipping them home. The lamb meat (which, as you can see in the photo) is literally shaved off a spit and quickly heated on a grill, and drizzled with fresh lemon juice. Like the meatballs in Spili, the meat had some magical but unidentifiable spices to differentiate it from anything I've tasted in the States. Savory, lemony, crispy but chewy. The meat absolutely carries the wrap, but the fresh tzatziki (a yogurt and cucumber sauce), warm pita, and a few french fries stuffed inside are all critical pieces of the puzzle.

And yes, the fact that it was the single cheapest meal I had (just 2 Euro a pop!) added to the glory of it all. TWO EURO!

6. Misses: There were a few moments where I was reminded that I am spoiled in San Francisco, especially around the produce. In particular, a shrimp & avocado salad confirmed that California avocados are second-to-none. The Greek avocado was grainy, not smooth and buttery like they are at home. I also had a few Greek salads where the tomatoes were good, but I'd take a local heirloom tomato any day.

The day before my triumphant gyro discovery, I ordered one at a waterfront restaurant (read: touristy). It came out as a platter in which we were expected to build the gyro ourselves. The pork was tasteless. The pita was triangle shaped and the size of a large tortilla chip. It was 9 Euros. Needless to say, it made the next day all the sweeter.

Since I've been back, several people have asked me about the trip's highlights. Without question, it was the food. Not only did I experience new tastes and flavors, but the dining experience really united the people I was with.