Two for Two

After a several week hiatus, my parents and I resumed our Friday lunch routine with a bang. Last week we hit the well-renowned Perbacco; this week we checked out new comer La Fusion. Perbacco's Italian fare couldn't be more different than La Fusion's Latin, but they were both winners.

Perbacco





I've now been to Perbacco four or five times, and it's more consistent than Cal Ripken Jr. This visit I ordered the "Langaroli – Pasta filled with brasato of short ribs and porcini mushrooms / red wine butter" which is just a long winded way to say short rib ravioli. My "beef" with ravioli is the pasta always over powers the filling, sometimes to the point where I'm not sure what the filling is. Not the case at Perbacco; the hand-made pasta wins the Oscar for Best Supporting Actor because it's delicate texture and mild taste allows the savory goodness of the short ribs shine through. This is a short rib dish through and through. That being said, the pasta pieces are clearly hand-made and a work of art themselves.

My mom had some sort of pasta-less short rib dish also and she claims it was one of the best we've had in our four years Friday lunch (four years?!). I was privy to a bite and the accompanying bed of lentils and greens were as delectable as the meat itself.

A note about the service. I was on a tight schedule in between work meetings and politely informed the waitress. She brought out our dishes in lighting speed. We appreciated her consideration. We also appreciated the bottomless focaccia bread basket :)

La Fusion





Flash forward a week. I walked into La Fusion not feeling particularly hungry. Not thirty seconds later inside the tiny restaurant, and my stomach was growling for whatever was coming from the kitchen. The menu tested my ability to prioritize, with many tempting ceviche, beef, lamb, and fried side options. Per our charming server's suggestion, we went family style: 1/2 roast chicken (served over a warm bread salad and served with one side), prawn ceviche, and empanada (one beef, one seafood).

Out first were the empanadas and you really can't go wrong with meat stuffed into a fried, flaky crust. I appreciated the accompanying dipping sauces, but the empanadas really didn't need them. We're off to a good start.

I was most impressed with the ceviche. Ceviche to me often means a tiny piece of fish with a bit of diced tomatoes. There must have been 15 large prawns comprising the tower, all atop a fresh chunk of avocado. They didn't skimp on the savory red sauce and softened onions, either. The crispy crostini chips made the perfect bite possible. At $12, this was worth every penny.

La Fusion seem to promote the roast chicken, which you can buy whole, half, or quartered atop a warm bread salad. Our side choice - yuka frita - were crispier than your normal french fry but very similar in size and taste. The chicken itself didn't blow me away; it was a tad on the dry side and a little bland. But with the assortment of sauces and warm bread (think along the lines of Thanksgiving stuffing), one can fix the bland problem quite easily. Or, if you're seeking a healthier option, I think most dietitians would approve (calories don't count on Fridays though).

Feeling we had the wind at our backs, we closed with a flourless chocolate cake. This wasn't the richest I've ever had, but it had the gooey and dense factor going for it. Looking for a casual, low key lunch break spot? It doesn't get better than La Fusion.

Worth Every Minute

Having waited more than a year to go Aziza, I suppose it was only fitting that the particularly slow service delayed my first bite even longer. However, the trek (Outer Richmond) and delays were absolutely worth it. I'd go back in a heartbeat but I'll sit at the bar (shocking, I know).

Aziza has a Michelin star, but judging by the decor and casual atmosphere, you'd never know it (the food explains the star). There's nothing refined nor particularly romantic about this place. Don't get me wrong - it's miles away from being a dump - but I felt like I was at a dark Mexican restaurant (I later learned it had, in fact, been a Mexican joint before Aziza moved in). This goes against the grain of the half dozen or so Michelin star spots I've been to. I personally found it to be a very comfortable environment and a mark in the "Plus" column.

Our table wasn't ready for our 7pm reservation, so we ordered a drink at the bar while we waited. The cocktail menu is original and I was very impressed to A) order a kiwi cocktail and B) watch the bartender hand mash the fresh kiwi. As I stated earlier, my next meal at Aziza will be bar-side.

Our 7pm reservation wasn't ready until about 7:20 and we weren't greeted by anyone for at least ten minutes or so after that. I tried to remain calm and not be in such a freaking hurry but I couldn't help but wonder why someone hadn't even brought us a glass of water. When our server did finally appear, he seemed distracted and rushed off to another table before we asked all our questions. Luckily, we managed to order a hummus and "spread" dip before he ran off.

The three spreads (chickpea, yogurt-dill, and piquillo-almond) were thick and divine with the grilled'n'oily flatbread. The chickpea tasted like your typical hummus while the yogurt-dill and almond each had a unique taste and an unusual thickness to them. It was also fun to compare the different tastes with Adrienne and Jac. This is a great plate to share and I highly recommend you order it as a starter.

Long after we finished the spreads, we placed our entree order. Adrienne and I opted to go halfsies on the branzino (a white fish for you uneducated folk like me) and scallop-green farro while Jac opted for the beef. I still can't decide what I liked more between the branzino and the scallop. The filet had that perfect combination of a perfectly crispy skin and a juicy, but not-too-fishy-tasting interior. It really could not have been prepared better. Small pieces of kumquat added for an unexpected citrus punch (unfortunately my pic turned out fuzzy so I omitted it). On the other side of the ring for the Battle of the Fish was the scallop dish. Unlike the branzino, the scallop was more of a supporting player to the creamy-but-slightly-crunchy bed of green farro beneath it. The scallop is chopped into small pieces and is actually hard to pick out underneath the layer of shaved truffle. The dish's warmth and truffle flavor made it a true comfort meal. I had to stop and put my fork down as I didn't want to rush through the joy.

I didn't try Jac's beef but I fantasized about having a bite as she cut through it. She didn't need to pick up a knife to cut through any of it. She claims it's the best beef she's ever had, so there ya go (she clearly didn't pick up on my hints that I'd like to try a bite: "how's that beef?" "what does it taste like?" "wow, I really love beef that falls off the bone" "my iron levels are getting low, I hear beef is a good source of iron" "I've had a lot of fish tonight, beef sounds like an interesting change of pace.")

Throwing caution to the wind (by caution, I mean my bedtime), we stuck it out for dessert. Again, this tacked another 30 minutes on our night but worth it. We ordered the chocolate mousse with pumpkin ganache, kumquat, hazelnut dacquoise. There are so many flavors and textures at play here, and they just WORK. I can't really explain it. You just have to go and try it.

I have to admit, the service marred what could have been a perfect meal. I wasn't even in a rush, but I (and my guests agree) felt ignored. I am not sure what one's expectations should be when she enters a Michelin restaurant; mine are high. If you want a superior meal but care less about the "experience" - you have met your match.

2011: The good, the bad, and the yummy

I look forward all year to writing this post. It's an opportunity to reflect on all the amazing food adventures I was privileged enough to experience over the last 365 days. The inner "categorizer" in me gets to come out and play, too.

Let's get the bad news out of the way first. Unlike last year, I had NO problem coming up with several Worsts. But, the inner optimist in me realizes the bad meals make the good ones all the more glorious.

1. Wayfare Tavern: The cold, soggy, overpriced fried chicken was an insult. I am still reeling. At least they have a cool bar so I can fathom going back.

2. Umami Burger: I still do not understand the buzz about this place; and it's still raging out of control. The bun-to-patty proportions were so off the mark that what was placed in front of me barely resembled a burger. The pretentious ketchup serving spoons just annoy me. Can you just bring me the bottle?


3. Hecho: I can prepare salmon better than Hecho can and I know I'm no Julia Child. If you want to be charged $18 for a piece of fish that's been purchased at Costco, dropped on a grill, flipped, and put on your plate - then, this is your place (by the way, I have noticed all the initial buzz about this place has totally disappeared).

4. Slanted Door: Of the six or so dishes I had here, not all were awful (only five). This was disheartening in itself, but when the bill was placed in front of me, I felt like I was socked in the stomach. As you'll see in my "Best of" list, expensive is okay, but the value MUST be there.

This is the tough part. 2011 was full of so many good meals for so many different reasons. However, specifics about the five listed below stand out in my memory weeks, months, and probably years later.

1. Gary Danko: I distinctly remember telling someone after my meal at Gary Danko that it was an amazing experience but not something I'd want to do again. It was too expensive, too loud, too MUCH. What I didn't anticipate was, eight months later, to still think about that meal every day. It still makes me smile. I can still recall every bite of all five of the courses. I still call up Adrienne and recall specific moments or bites. That is priceless.

If you asked a server to break off a few toilet paper squares, I'm pretty sure he would.

2. Picco (Larkspur): Simple food done brilliantly well. Risottos, tartares, bruschetta: we see these options everywhere. But nobody can execute as well Bruce Hill does as Picco. That avocado bruschetta stands out as one of the best single dishes all year:


3. Osteria Stellina (Point Reyes): It's worth the haul to taste this pizza. The crust, the innovative toppings, and fresh cheese come together better than any other combo I had all year.

4. Gamine: Burger, burger, burger. After much reflection, I have to say this was the best burger of the year. Close second: Don Pistos and Parallel 37. Traditional, this burger is not; but if it feels this good to be wrong, I don't want to be right.

5. Quince. Fat Angel. Quince was a lovely meal, but now that I have to describe it, I can't come up with a single specific (and I think I had five courses!). Truly great meals ingrain themselves to memory to the point where I can recall each bite. So, in its place is Fat Angel, a neighborhood spot that was undoubtedly my most frequented spot this year. Alone, on a date, with a group: this place fits the bill. The wine is on tap, the small snacks (including a butter platter) double as an afternoon tide-me-over or a light dinner, and the bread pudding is killer. In a year where dessert didn't do much to impress me, this bread pudding stands as the best dessert of the year. And it's two blocks away.

And for those who don't fall into the above two buckets:

1. Road Trip Worthy (especially on a sunny day): Marshall Store in tiny Marshall, CA. If you're driving too fast, you may miss this shack on the side of the road. The oysters, which are plucked same-day, are four times as big as any oyster I've ever seen. They're also dressed brilliantly: bacon and Worcestershire, cheese and spinach. Grab a beer, sit outside on the picnic tables, and take in the beautful waterfront views.

2. The Happiest Hour: Garibaldi's: No, this is not the hippest crowd (most need hip replacements). But, the Happy Hour menu is out of this world. Small bites, large bites, wine, beer, and specialty cocktails are all half off from 5 to 6:30 - SEVEN DAYS A WEEK!

3. Didn't See That One Coming: Bluestem Brasserie. The early reviews of this place were mediocre and the empty dining room didn't add to my confidence. But my lamb burger and french fries completely dispelled my skepticism. It's still fairly new so I can only hope it continues to get better.

4. Best Come From Behind Victory: I was so furious after my first visit to Mamacita that it took me three years to go back. I didn't have a chance to review it individually, but I went about two weeks ago and thoroughly enjoyed my meal. Yes, it's high end Mexican (which I still think is an oxymoron) but the portions seemed bigger and the quality is quite good. The fish tacos were fried perfectly, the chips and guac couldn't have been done better, and the brussel sprouts were covered in enough "stuff" that I forgot I was eating a vegetable. Pics below.

I say it every year: I am not sure how this year can exceed the last, but I know it will. By the way, if you're headed to Mission Beach Cafe, Namu, Red Door Cafe, Bar Terra, Refuge, Heirloom Cafe, Pacific Cafe or Park Tavern: call me.