Thursday, January 12, 2012

Worth Every Minute







Having waited more than a year to go Aziza, I suppose it was only fitting that the particularly slow service delayed my first bite even longer. However, the trek (Outer Richmond) and delays were absolutely worth it. I'd go back in a heartbeat but I'll sit at the bar (shocking, I know).

Aziza has a Michelin star, but judging by the decor and casual atmosphere, you'd never know it (the food explains the star). There's nothing refined nor particularly romantic about this place. Don't get me wrong - it's miles away from being a dump - but I felt like I was at a dark Mexican restaurant (I later learned it had, in fact, been a Mexican joint before Aziza moved in). This goes against the grain of the half dozen or so Michelin star spots I've been to. I personally found it to be a very comfortable environment and a mark in the "Plus" column.

Our table wasn't ready for our 7pm reservation, so we ordered a drink at the bar while we waited. The cocktail menu is original and I was very impressed to A) order a kiwi cocktail and B) watch the bartender hand mash the fresh kiwi. As I stated earlier, my next meal at Aziza will be bar-side.

Our 7pm reservation wasn't ready until about 7:20 and we weren't greeted by anyone for at least ten minutes or so after that. I tried to remain calm and not be in such a freaking hurry but I couldn't help but wonder why someone hadn't even brought us a glass of water. When our server did finally appear, he seemed distracted and rushed off to another table before we asked all our questions. Luckily, we managed to order a hummus and "spread" dip before he ran off.

The three spreads (chickpea, yogurt-dill, and piquillo-almond) were thick and divine with the grilled'n'oily flatbread. The chickpea tasted like your typical hummus while the yogurt-dill and almond each had a unique taste and an unusual thickness to them. It was also fun to compare the different tastes with Adrienne and Jac. This is a great plate to share and I highly recommend you order it as a starter.

Long after we finished the spreads, we placed our entree order. Adrienne and I opted to go halfsies on the branzino (a white fish for you uneducated folk like me) and scallop-green farro while Jac opted for the beef. I still can't decide what I liked more between the branzino and the scallop. The filet had that perfect combination of a perfectly crispy skin and a juicy, but not-too-fishy-tasting interior. It really could not have been prepared better. Small pieces of kumquat added for an unexpected citrus punch (unfortunately my pic turned out fuzzy so I omitted it). On the other side of the ring for the Battle of the Fish was the scallop dish. Unlike the branzino, the scallop was more of a supporting player to the creamy-but-slightly-crunchy bed of green farro beneath it. The scallop is chopped into small pieces and is actually hard to pick out underneath the layer of shaved truffle. The dish's warmth and truffle flavor made it a true comfort meal. I had to stop and put my fork down as I didn't want to rush through the joy.

I didn't try Jac's beef but I fantasized about having a bite as she cut through it. She didn't need to pick up a knife to cut through any of it. She claims it's the best beef she's ever had, so there ya go (she clearly didn't pick up on my hints that I'd like to try a bite: "how's that beef?" "what does it taste like?" "wow, I really love beef that falls off the bone" "my iron levels are getting low, I hear beef is a good source of iron" "I've had a lot of fish tonight, beef sounds like an interesting change of pace.")

Throwing caution to the wind (by caution, I mean my bedtime), we stuck it out for dessert. Again, this tacked another 30 minutes on our night but worth it. We ordered the chocolate mousse with pumpkin ganache, kumquat, hazelnut dacquoise. There are so many flavors and textures at play here, and they just WORK. I can't really explain it. You just have to go and try it.

I have to admit, the service marred what could have been a perfect meal. I wasn't even in a rush, but I (and my guests agree) felt ignored. I am not sure what one's expectations should be when she enters a Michelin restaurant; mine are high. If you want a superior meal but care less about the "experience" - you have met your match.

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