Friday, July 29, 2011

A sheep in wolf’s clothing





I think this title’s axiom is correct. Maybe not. But what I’m trying to express is that Wexler’s sells itself as a BBQ place (one of the few in SF that I can name) but it’s really a proper, light fare kind of place. No extra napkins needed; needn’t worry about BBQ sauce down the chin or shredded pork in teeth.

This is only a negative if you’re craving finger lickin’, sauce drippin’, stuff-yourself-silly BBQ fare. I typically don’t during the Friday lunch-hour, so I walked away quite pleased with my meal. We started with the fried green tomatoes appetizers. While I would eat shoe leather if it was fried, I don't think tomatoes are the most fry-friendly ingredient. The breading slid off the tomato so it was hard to get a bite of both. The tomatoes themselves were harder than any fresh tomato I've ever had, but maybe that's a product of the deep fryer or how green tomatoes are naturally. I enjoyed them but I wouldn't order it again. And, consistent with the entrees, don't expect a big bowl of fried goodness; our plate was probably the equivalent of one medium-sized tomato.

I ate here when it first opened about two years ago and distinctly remember the sandwich roll and not much else. To this day, this roll stood out as the most perfect I’ve ever had and today’s brisket sandwich confirmed my theory. It’s almost as if the restaurant takes deliberate steps to showcase the roll by minimizing the other components. My portion of brisket was a paltry slice and the sauce was not much more than a scanty swipe down one side of the roll. I would go as far as to say that the meat and dressing portions are small enough to raise eyebrows.

But let's focus on the positive. Aforementioned bread is a sweet roll from locally owned Acme Bread Company. The crusty exterior is thin and chewy while the interior is soft and sweet. It's neutral enough to showcase the meat but simultaneously has such a beautiful texture to steal the show. If I could only consume one kind of bread for the rest of my life, this is the one. The spectacular bread, location, solid service, and reasonable prices make Wexler's a place I hope to visit regularly.

*As I review the pictures, the sandos look HUGE! I promise you, it's a thick bed of cabbage creating a false sense of height.

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