Girl Power

If you're considering a brunch spot whose name is that of a woman, go. Ella's, Brenda's, and now Judy's are among the best brunch experiences I've had in the city (Dottie's in the Tenderloin just shot to the top of my To-Do list). Last weekend I was looking for a homey, low-key brunch place to take my college friend, Lauren. Given Judy's prime location in the heart of the Marina and positive word-of-mouth reputation, it made the final cut.

First impressions are key. As soon as I walked in, I knew I was going to be in for a treat: the man who greeted us was jovial and welcoming, while the restaurant itself is cozy - if not a bit cramped. Also, Judy's passed the all-important "walk by" with flying colors - every patron was chowing down on amazing looking brunch fare.

What is usually an intense internal battle between protein or carbs, I had a hankering for eggs so ordered the crab omlette special with little deliberation. I chose the pumpkin loaf (of the possible blueburry muffin, english muffin, toast, or potatoes side options). Luckily, Lauren was in the mood for a sweet treat and opted for the cream cheese stuffed french toast.

My omelette was bursting with chunks of crab, tasty hollaindaise sauce, and sauteed spinach. The serving was so large I had to pack half up for later. The pumpkin loaf was moist and large; extra points for originality too. Judy's real trump card, though, is the cream-cheese french toast. The waiter mentioned they butterfly the bread (whatever that means) to stuff the filling. This cheese is not your average, run-of-the-mill spread. It is light but flavorful, and perfectly proportioned to the cinamon bread. It is a RICH meal. Lauren couldn't finish hers, so I begrudgingly helped her out. In fact, she had so much left over, I got to take some home and discovered it's equally tasty after a few hours in the refridgerator. That's legit.

Judy's is reasonably priced (except for the coffee) and perfectly located for a Sunday post-run meal or pre-shopping fuel up. Now the question is, will Judy, Brenda, and Ella let Corinne be their friend?????

Boulevard Blah

Admitting to dining at Boulevard typically elicits a response along the line of “oooh la la!” or “arrrenn’t we special!” or something similar with the same mocking tone. Boulevard has an elitist reputation and they know it and I’m sure they love it. Old, rich people eat there. Willie Brown hangs out at the bar. Well, if I’m ever the mayor or old and rich – it won’t be my go-to spot.

Both my visits were for lunch, so I can buy the argument that dinner is what makes it truly special. Maybe so, but the best restaurants nail both lunch AND dinner. I still remember when I ate there about two years ago and ordered the ravioli ($21). My jaw dropped when THREE bite-size ravioli came out. It was the size of a small snack for the price of a nice dinner entrée at a normal restaurant.

I wasn’t disappointed with the portion or the price this time around. I ordered the burger (always a safe bet at a frou-frou place like this). Simply put, there was no “wow” factor. Bun and beef patty: that’s it. It comes with a thin, forgettable slice of cheese, and the standard slice raw onion and tomatoes. The two teaspoons of ketchup clearly wasn’t going to save it, either. A good burger has to have some competitive differentiator (mouth watering bacon, unusual cheese, avocado, house-made sauce – to name a few) and Boulevard’s burger had none of it. The fries have incredible potential, but were cold by the time they got to me.

I had a few bites of my mom’s pork loin and was even more underwhelmed. It didn’t taste like something any normal person couldn’t prepare. I felt like I wanted to run to the microwave to heat it up and dump a pile of salt on it.

The mint chip ice cream cake dessert saved the day: easily one of the most creative-without-being-weird-and-inedible desserts I’ve ever had. I can still taste the mint ice cream; I remember marveling how real mint leaves went into this ice cream. I love me a good scoop of Dreyers ice cream, but the ingredients in this ice cream make a mockery of store-bought cartons. The ice cream hardened the chocolate cake base to create a denser, moister version of normal chocolate cake. The cake and ice cream are engulfed in a layer of meringue which has a neutral affect on the overall taste but makes for great presentation. Lastly, three people can each have a few hearty bites so the $10 price tag is quite reasonable.

Killer desserts are great but they can’t save an otherwise average meal.

An Identity Crisis at Five

Risking contraction of the various health threats that BART seats supposedly pose, I hopped on an East Bay-bound train to meet Lauren for an early bite at Five. Five's head chef, Scott Howard, holds a special place in my heart. His eponymous, now-defunct Jackson Square restaurant is where I would head every Thursday night when I first moved to San Francisco. Perfect attendance. It was the first place where I truly felt like a "regular": the staff knew my name, the bartenders hooked it up, and Scott himself would pull up a stool to chit chat. I have yet to find another home like it. I cried when I found out it was closing. RIP.

Fast forward two years. Scott now operates Five, a restaurant in Hotel Shattuck Plaza in the heart of Downtown Berkeley. I didn't really know what to make of the place when I first walked in: it's a vast space (which remained largely unoccupied in the few hours I was there) adorned with busy wall-paper that looks straight out of a country home in Greenich, Connecticut. This contrasts with the sleek, modern furniture that seems to be striving for a swanky vibe. The lighting is bright while the furniture is dark. I don't know what ambiance the restaurant is aiming for.

The interior design was just one of a few head-scratchers. Five advertises a great Happy Hour, but one has to wonder what's so special about a cocktail list where nothing is less than $9. By "Happy Hour," I suppose they are referring to the half-dozen $5 bar bites - which include goodies like chicken & waffles, flatbread pizza, house-made pretzel, pulled pork sliders, mac'n'cheese, and more. Lauren and I opted to split the flatbread pizza and the burger ($13).

The burger is where things get really perplexing. I will say upfront, it wasn't a bad burger at all - I'm just not sure I'd classify it as a burger. It's description on the menu - "burger - chili | pimento cheese | slaw" sounds straightforward enough. It should really be called "Everything But the Kitchen Sink." There's a different thick sauce spread onto each bun, condiments, the patty itself, and MEAT CHILI. Meat chili?? What's NOT on this burger? The half-wise shot (compliments of Yelp) perfectly displays the many layers of the burger and the fact that the beef is totally lost in the mix. The bun, however, stays above the fray and is truly top notch. It's croissant-like and supported its interior quite well. Fries were fine but not memorable.

The flatbread reminded me I shouldn't order them anymore. Just like my flatbread at E&O Trading Company, it's basically mediocre bread with a smudge of topping.

Lastly, the service was terrible. I had to wonder what the cause for this was as I looked around at the near-empty dining room and half-full bar. The patron next to me had similar issues. Luckily, I was happy for the extra time to spend catching up with Lauren but on a bad first date - this would be a crime.

Five serves brunch and I would go back for that. It simply seems like a more appropriate place for day-time dining. Five doesn't know what to do with itself when it's dark outside.

The City is my Oyster

I’ve been on an oyster kick lately. Don’t know how/why/where it started, but I shot my first oyster a few weeks ago after a 10+ year hiatus. I am hooked: oysters are fun to eat and can be cheap; I also like the idea of learning more and experimenting with the different varieties, sizes, regions etc. Woodhouse Fish Company (<--Yay for embedded links!!!!!!!) is half a block from my apartment and offers a $1 oyster night every Tuesday. I've been here once or twice before but had never gone the oyster route.

Once our 35 minute+ wait had passed (WFC doesn't take resos), my accomplice and I were seated at the counter and immediately ordered up a dozen oysters. As aforementioned, I have very little experience with oysters, so take my evaluation with a grain of salt (or a dash of Tobasco, if we're staying in theme): I really enjoyed these oysters. They were big, cold, and tasted very fresh. I'm still perfecting the proportions of my concoction, but a splash of Tobasco and a dollop of cocktail sauce makes for a very tasty fish appetizer.

We also ordered up a serving of garlic bread and fish tacos for some real sustenance. Both earned my stamp of approval, especially the fish tacos. The fish itself was moist and flaky, while the breaded exterior was fried just right - and didn't leave me with a stomach-ache as fried food often does. The aioli sauce, thinly sliced avocado, and fresh salsa complement the fish but don't over power it.

A few random thoughts:

- There is also a Mission location if you're in a more hipster mood
- Lighting could be improved (ie, very bright lights)
- I used the word "counter" above deliberately; while it looks like a bar, mingling with an adult beverage as you wait for your table is NOT permitted
- Friendly wait-staff will bring your adult beverage to front of restaurant while you wait.
- They are famous for their crab roll, which I had about a year ago. I remember it being small and expensive - but good.

Diamond in the Rough

The month of February was a special one, as I had the great fortune to take several long weekends. In turn, I had the ability to enjoy a very rare mid-week brunch outing! A special treat, indeed. The criteria for last Thursday’s brunch spot selection were as follows:

1. Near a(ny) BART stop (as I was headed to SFO directly thereafter)
2. Cheap, but still sit-down
3. Somewhere I’ve never been

Brenda’s, located at Eddy and Polk, achieved all three – and then some. Located in a charming San Francisco neighborhood - this is not. But once you step through the doors, all is forgiven. I was seated immediately at the last open table around 10:45am, but those who arrived shortly after me were not so lucky. A healthy line formed outside (in the rain!). Keep in mind that this was a Thursday, so I can only imagine what the line looks like on the weekend. The restaurant itself is small and narrow; tables are crammed close together so be prepared to make friends with your neighbors.

Brenda’s has a menu where everything looks good. I changed my strategy from “what do I want?” to “what don’t I want?” but this approach didn’t help because couldn’t qualify anything out! The menu is chalk full of eggs, omelettes, pancakes, and southern specialties such as gumbo, biscuits, and grits.

Luckily my companion was willing to go halfsies, so we agreed on the Shrimp & Goat Cheese Omelette and the Hangtown Fry. Both plates came with a bowl of grits and a biscuit – which was a godsend as I was curious about the grits and refuse to miss a biscuit opportunity. Both main dishes were exceptional. The Hangtown fry came with loads of breaded oysters and chunks of fatty bacon. Because there was so much food in front of me, I focused on picking out the filling and leaving the eggs behind. The omelette featured big, quality pieces of shrimp and rich, creamy goat cheese – an unexpectedly good combination. Both of these dishes were top-notch, but what truly separates Brenda’s is the biscuit. It’s about the size of my face and everything a biscuit should be: crunchy exterior with a moist, layered buttery interior. It’s perfect with a dash of the homemade jam on each table or to deliver some of the egg dishes. I left the bowl of grits virtually untouched after one bite - which is in no way a slight to Brenda’s - but grits simply don’t do it for me. I try them once or twice a year and always wonder what the appeal is.

Throughout the meal, I noticed plates of large, donut-like pillows being taken out to the tables. I wasn’t about to miss out on the Beignets! We ordered the molten Ghiradelli chocolate-filled one, thinking we would split it. Well, one $5 serving is THREE beignets. The dough taste like the funnel cake I had at carnivals as a kid; while the filling is a warm, chunky Ghirardelli filling. It tastes just as good as it sounds. And wouldn’t you know, they taste great heated up later – so go ahead and order it and save some for later.

One minor complaint: the service is a little rushed. My server asked (for the second time) if I was ready to order while my companion was in the bathroom! Coffee is constantly being refilled when it doesn’t need to be. I guess with a long line out the door, there’s pressure to keep things moving, but I did feel guilty for sipping my coffee after our plates were removed. This is not a place that encourages lingering.

Farewell, Fun February.

The Best Pizza I Have EVER Had.

The title of this blog post sums up my experience at Osteria Stellina pretty concisely. But because I’ve become a narcissistic blogger and desire to relive my experience there, I shall dive into deeper detail.

Osteria Stellina's frequent appearance on the SF Chronicle's Top 100 list means it has been on my radar for awhile but its location (downtown Point Reyes, a 75 minute drive from the city) presented some limitations. The three-day President’s holiday weekend teed up the perfect opportunity to make the drive north. The drive there is lovely and passes by quickly. I’d describe the restaurant itself as a cozy, cabin-like diner. The chairs and tables are incredibly simple, as if they were pulled out of a convention room at a business conference; but the wooded décor helps to create a cozy ambiance. While I was only 75 minutes out of San Francisco, I felt like I was dropped somewhere in the mid-west (in a good way).

Jac and I were greeted and seated at the bar immediately. Our server was incredibly friendly (we learned later she’s from the south, which made perfect sense). We started by sharing “Greens and Beans” – a simple combination of Swiss chard and white butter beans. It was such a simple dish – no sauces or accouterments that I could see – yet so tasty and something I have never ordered out.

Then came the pizza that I will not soon forget. I’ve been fortunate enough to visit many of the top-rated pizza spots in SF (Delfina, Little Star, Zero Zero, etc) and none of their pies even approach what Stellina has to offer. As I dug into my last slice, I actually became emotional about how phenomenal it was and that it was soon coming to an end. The crust is utter perfection: thin and chewy with a slightly burnt exterior. It’s just thick enough to support the generous layer of Fontina cheese. I would happily eat the crust edges alone – the burnt flavor from the oven creates its own wonderful taste on its own. I actually debated swiping the crusts that other diners left on their plates but thought maybe that'd be tacky? The pie also featured nettles; a spinach-like topping that were slightly sweet, and again, nothing I’ve ever ordered before. Paper-thin wisps of Parmesan cheese topped it all off. At $15 for 8 generous slices, the pie is a total steal.

With the momentum building, Jac and I took a look at the dessert menu and ordered the chocolate cookie and coffee ice cream sandwich (the waitress misunderstood us and brought out the coffee cake as well – so, so sad). I devoured that sando like my life was on the line. The coffee ice cream is made in-house and is incredibly rich and flavorful. It’s perfectly paired with the chewy chocolate cookies. Like the pizza, I was getting sad toward the last few bites. I wasn’t crazy about the coffee cake, but with so many other winners, I wasn’t fazed.

If I haven’t been clear to this point, Stellina is absolutely worth the trip. Cowgirl Creamery is a fun shop around the corner and there are beautiful trails to walk nearby. I will be back as soon as I can.

It's Complicated

Marlowe opened in SOMA last February with serious burger buzz. The Chronicle’s food critic proclaimed it his favorite burger in San Francisco. A year later, I took my seat to find out what all the fuss is about.

I had to sleep on this one before I felt ready to articulate my thoughts. I almost wish I hadn’t known about the burger buzz as I think it isn’t allowing me to objectively evaluate it – I feel like I SHOULD rave about it or that maybe I am missing something. I’ll start from the top (literally): the bun has good shape and structure but I couldn’t help but feel bothered that it was cold. I had never noticed this preference in myself before, but I guess I like a slightly toasted bun. There’s a smear of mayonnaise – not too much, but just enough to register on my palette and to hold the loose lettuce to the bun. Below the mayo comes some nice caramelized onions. Liked the onions. Then comes the bacon. I am actually becoming stressed as I write this! The bacon totally overpowered the burger. But I love bacon! Why does this bother me? This should be a good thing! The bacon was particularly salty – beyond my salt tolerance level (which is freakishly high). The strong bacon presence is magnified by the fact that the beef patty is extremely thin. Like, McDonalds’ patty thin. It gets lost in the crowd of bacon, caramelized onion, condiments, salt, and so forth (see picture). Finally, the bottom of the burger also had its problems: the grease from the meat seeped to the bottom and caused the bottom bun to be soggy and quite messy. There was a pool of grease at the bottom of my plate. The thin fries were enjoyable, but again, too salty.

Desperately trying to cleanse the salt from my mouth, I insisted we order a dessert (isn’t that what one ought to do?? Water is for sissies). The chocolate pudding was top-notch: rich, served with loose pie crumbs, and cool presentation.

As I re-read this, I feel like I'm ripping into Marlowe. But I actually walked out feeling quite satisfied. I remember initially thinking it was waaay too salty but otherwise enjoyable. All things considered, I would recommend this place to others and go back myself. I really loved the restaurant itself: small, cozy, and industrial. I had a great corner spot near the entrance that enabled me to people watch inside and outside the restaurant. Lastly, they play great music in the background (think Stevie Wonder and Aretha) but keep the volume under control. If I go back, I would probably branch out to other tempting items on the menu.