Diamond in the Rough

The month of February was a special one, as I had the great fortune to take several long weekends. In turn, I had the ability to enjoy a very rare mid-week brunch outing! A special treat, indeed. The criteria for last Thursday’s brunch spot selection were as follows:

1. Near a(ny) BART stop (as I was headed to SFO directly thereafter)
2. Cheap, but still sit-down
3. Somewhere I’ve never been

Brenda’s, located at Eddy and Polk, achieved all three – and then some. Located in a charming San Francisco neighborhood - this is not. But once you step through the doors, all is forgiven. I was seated immediately at the last open table around 10:45am, but those who arrived shortly after me were not so lucky. A healthy line formed outside (in the rain!). Keep in mind that this was a Thursday, so I can only imagine what the line looks like on the weekend. The restaurant itself is small and narrow; tables are crammed close together so be prepared to make friends with your neighbors.

Brenda’s has a menu where everything looks good. I changed my strategy from “what do I want?” to “what don’t I want?” but this approach didn’t help because couldn’t qualify anything out! The menu is chalk full of eggs, omelettes, pancakes, and southern specialties such as gumbo, biscuits, and grits.

Luckily my companion was willing to go halfsies, so we agreed on the Shrimp & Goat Cheese Omelette and the Hangtown Fry. Both plates came with a bowl of grits and a biscuit – which was a godsend as I was curious about the grits and refuse to miss a biscuit opportunity. Both main dishes were exceptional. The Hangtown fry came with loads of breaded oysters and chunks of fatty bacon. Because there was so much food in front of me, I focused on picking out the filling and leaving the eggs behind. The omelette featured big, quality pieces of shrimp and rich, creamy goat cheese – an unexpectedly good combination. Both of these dishes were top-notch, but what truly separates Brenda’s is the biscuit. It’s about the size of my face and everything a biscuit should be: crunchy exterior with a moist, layered buttery interior. It’s perfect with a dash of the homemade jam on each table or to deliver some of the egg dishes. I left the bowl of grits virtually untouched after one bite - which is in no way a slight to Brenda’s - but grits simply don’t do it for me. I try them once or twice a year and always wonder what the appeal is.

Throughout the meal, I noticed plates of large, donut-like pillows being taken out to the tables. I wasn’t about to miss out on the Beignets! We ordered the molten Ghiradelli chocolate-filled one, thinking we would split it. Well, one $5 serving is THREE beignets. The dough taste like the funnel cake I had at carnivals as a kid; while the filling is a warm, chunky Ghirardelli filling. It tastes just as good as it sounds. And wouldn’t you know, they taste great heated up later – so go ahead and order it and save some for later.

One minor complaint: the service is a little rushed. My server asked (for the second time) if I was ready to order while my companion was in the bathroom! Coffee is constantly being refilled when it doesn’t need to be. I guess with a long line out the door, there’s pressure to keep things moving, but I did feel guilty for sipping my coffee after our plates were removed. This is not a place that encourages lingering.

Farewell, Fun February.