Thursday, January 13, 2011

Keepin' it local




Most Sunday afternoons I can be found in my pajamas with a good book in hand. This past Sunday I managed to rally myself to make the long trip across the street to SPQR. While I’d been there twice for brunch, I was becoming downright embarrassed that I had never made it there for dinner. It’s quite popular among food critics and couldn’t be more convenient.

I immediately noticed how packed the place was for a Sunday night. My companion (and neighbor) Sarah G and I scored the last two spots available for walk-ins – two corner stools at the chef’s kitchen bar. This meant we got to sit dumbstruck by all the beautiful creations the chefs were plating (“how does he get that pasta to stack so perfectly?” “How much do you think he makes?” “what do you think she cooks for herself when she’s not working?”) While some may see this as a distraction, Sarah and I thoroughly enjoyed the entertainment and a glimpse into a fast-paced kitchen. Those folks work NONSTOP.

When it came time for ordering, I put my foot down about the spiced ricotta fritters and let Sarah run with the rest. The fritters came out first and I truly haven’t tasted anything like them before; the filling itself is very mild – it barely registers to me as a cheese. I was more struck by the hint of maple syrup. It’s definitely more of a sweet treat than a savory one. I can’t say I’d order them again, but they were memorable.

Then came the mushroom risotto and the ravioli. The risotto was warm and creamy and topped with perfect slices of fresh squash. I am no risotto expert but it seemed very good to me. I like mushrooms and appreciated the high-quality pieces of mushroom tucked inside. The ravioli is a bit of a conundrum for me: I can’t really recall what was in the ravioli. I think it was pumpkin. Either way, it was mild and the focus is definitely on the pasta. What I love about this dish is you know someone stuffed and hand folded each piece of ravioli. This kind of quality is rare and pleasurable in itself.

I felt this same feeling after my previous brunch experiences: you cannot find fresher, better quality ingredients than at SPQR. I swear the egg I had at brunch was the single best egg I’ve ever had in my life…they probably have an organic farm in the back where they humanely treat chickens who pop out the eggs and serve them immediately. Anyway, the superiority of the ingredients is what makes this place great and unique. I can’t say I go to bed dreaming about eating here but it’s always memorable.

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