Spruce! It’s a restaurant the critics fawn over, a place I run by several times each week en route to the Presidio (yes, I gaze longingly in the windows and fantasize about the culinary dreams that come true on the other side), and is widely regarded as home to one of the best burgers in San Francisco. Anticipation was high as I entered through the grand foyer and made my way to the bar.

Let’s start with the decor. The words “grand,” “classy,” “elegant,” even “ostentatious” pop to mind. The ceilings are high, the furniture feels regal, and the lighting is low. The result is a very romantic ambiance (my girlfriend Jac was in luck!). I immediately noticed the number of bald heads and gray hair; I am guessing the Laurel Heights location lures even more older folks than other high-end restaurants in the city.

Jac and I found two spots at the bar after waiting just a few minutes. We are both celebrating recent job developments, so we were in the mood to splurge. I started with a sparkling wine & pomegranate cocktail, which (Mom, hide your eyes) cost the same as the burger. It almost makes me laugh how ridiculous that is but, you have to walk into a place like Spruce expecting that and just enjoy the experience (and then eat canned beans for a few days to compensate). Jac and I didn’t even open the menus as we knew we would be testing the famous burger. Just before the burger came out, the waiter brought a small gorgonzola cheese puff for us to try. A small bite of heaven – chewy, warm, cheesy, almost croissant-like.

Out came the burger. The bun is truly unlike any other I’ve had at a restaurant – I’d describe it as a cross between a large English muffin and a Ciabatta roll. It’s chewy and heartier than a traditional bun but does not over power the meat. The toppings: tomato slices, thinly sliced pickles, and pickled red onions are all top notch. The fries may have stolen the show. They definitely rank in the top three French fries I’ve ever had. I did a little research and learned they’re double fried in duck fat which may explain why they’re so distinctive in texture, color, and taste. Everything up to this point is phenomenal, but I haven’t discussed the meat. Sigh. My rare patty was dry and crumbly. It didn’t taste like really quality beef to me which is surprising given how high-end of a restaurant this is. This is in direct contrast with my #1 burger in SF at Bix; Bix’s meat is far superior and the reason I love it so much. To be fair, the burger is $14 (Bix’s is $18.50), which is totally reasonable - especially at dinnertime and at such a nice place.

On the cab ride home, Jac and consulted Bix vs. Spruce since we’re both burger lovers and have actually have been together for both. We agreed that Bix burger + Spruce fries is the dream combination. Let the search continue…